‘Search and rescue’ is defined as the careful process of identifying, locating and recovering rare and endemic flora from the construction area. In close cooperation with the Contractor and the Environmental Officer, cuttings, bulbs, seeds and transplanted specimens are collected and then transported to a nursery off-site, for their protection and propagation. After the completion of works, the established specimens will be safely returned to the site to restore the ecological balance and environmental integrity of the area.

The first stage of search and rescue has been completed of some of the plants and we have now set up an area at our nursery where the plants are being looked after. Bulbs are being bagged up and the cuttings we took planted into growing medium along with Kelpak fertiliser. The list of plants identified that we were instructed to recover include the following:

We will shortly be putting up a signboard with all this info at the site, to help make the process more transparent for the public. 

Check back here for images of the plants growing in our nursery.

A flowering perennial, growing to approximately 600- 750mm tall and wide, the hybrid ‘Mona Lavender’ is flowering profusely with its bright pinky-purple flowers held above the dark glossy green leaves with purple undersides. The plant makes a neat rounded shape and is very useful in the middle of a large shade bed grown with ferns and other shady plants.

Alex Main from Shadowlands, one of our plant supplier is growing beautiful specimens and has this to say about growing and caring for it: “It flowers very unpredictably, but does well in shortened daylight, which starts in autumn, but depending on how old the plant is and how much it has been pinched back, flowering can be extended right into early summer. Growing ‘Mona Lavender’ is a pleasure for any gardener as it is relatively adaptable and trouble free. It does very well in either shaded or partly sunny positions. When it receives sun it tends to stay smaller and more compact and the leaves exhibit a much more intense colouring – especially on the purple undersides of the leaf.

Like most Plectranthus species, ‘Mona Lavender’ enjoys a rich soil with plenty of humus, and won’t say no to extra compost! It is quite a thirsty plant, so water every few days to keep it happy. The plants enjoy being pinched back to induce better branching and compactness. They make a great bedding plant and look good when they are planted en masse or as individuals in an existing bedding display. They also make good pot plants which can be moved around as needed and will fill a 25cm pot in a matter of months.

They enjoy feeding too, which should be carried out at any time but preferably not before or during flowering. The fertilizer may consist of a general all-purpose 2-3-2 as a granular or liquid feed – be sure to water it in well as it is easy to burn the tender roots, or use a purely organic fertilizer to avoid this.”

 The ‘naked ladies’ are making a show in Cape Town at the moment! These beautiful flowers emerge from their bulbs in the ground almost magically in the South Western Cape only. The flowers are trumpet shaped and range from white to dark pink forms. There are often up to 20 individual flowers on a flowering head, held on a thin purplish stem about 50cm tall. The flowers emerge without the leaves and the appearance of the tall flower stalk without any leaves accounts for the common name “naked lady”.

The leaves remain green throughout the winter period and produce a starch, which is stored in the bulb. In summer the leaves die back and the bulb becomes dormant again. This strange phenomenon of flowering before the leaves appear is known as hysteranthy. The belladonna lily’s specific flowering time is late summer, end of February and March.

Botanical illustration of bulb & flower

Amaryllis belladonna in its natural habitat is found in small dense groups among rocks. Therefore the best place to plant them would be in a rock garden. In the garden, Amaryllis can be used mixed in between blue Agapanthus as a good combination, as the evergreen leaves of the Agapanthus provide skirts for the naked ladies. They can also be grown between a ground cover or mixed annual or herbaceous border.

This beautiful shrub or small tree is worth growing for its beautiful glossy dark green leaves and pretty white flowers with mauve markings on the petals. Useful in the shadier areas of the garden, Mackaya Bella is indigenous to the Eastern Cape and hence needs good watering if grown in the hot Cape summers. It actually flowers better if planted in a semi-shaded area rather than deep shade, and it is useful for providing screen planting along a shaded boundary. It can be fickle in the Cape though and does need good feeding and regular watering to encourage health and more flowers. Growing to a height of about 2m and spreading to about 1.5m, they benefit from regular pruning to encourage more bushy growth. Great to plant along a stream embankment along with arums, Brilliantasia, Halleria and other shade loving plants.

The site is exposed to particularly harsh South East winds and so trees that have proven themselves to be wind tolerant have been chosen. An interesting civils feature on this project is the use of permeable paving so as to reduce the surface run-off of rain water. This water will naturally seep back into the water table instead of running into the stormwater.

The landscaping scope of works is divided into two phases. The first phase (about 1/3rd of the landscape works) is to commence in March 2012 and will be completed by the end of March. The second more substantial phase is to commence in August 2012 and will be complete by the end of August, ready for the official launch and opening of the revamped mall.

We are proud to be a part in this exciting project and will give more regular blog updates on progress once we start on site soon. The photos attached to this blog are an artist’s rendered version and the landscape is not entirely accurately depicted.

Agapanthus cultivars – ‘Aggies’

December and January in the Cape is Agapanthus season and reminds everyone of the summer holidays and the festive season. Our garden, street verges and embankments are ablaze with purple and white around the city and the common ‘aggie’ really comes into it’s own.

There is now a huge variety of Agapanthus cultivars including the dwarf or ‘Nana’ agapanthus. Most of them are cultivars or hybrids of the evergreen Agapanthus praecox from the winter rainfall area of the Western Cape.

Agapanthus nana with variegated leaves

Agapanthus are great waterwise garden plants and are particularly ‘bomb-proof’ meaning that they generally grow well, flower well and look attractive year round as long as they get sufficient water in the hot summer months and are grown in soil with added compost and fertilizer.

Sunken garden fountain

The garden work by Cape Contours started back in March with the early planning and design phases in consultation with the client, his project team and the Cloete family. The installation of the new plants, trees and hedges started in September. The garden at the Alphen didn’t need much redesign as such, as the layout had historically been laid down over the years with walkways, lawns and beds already in place. However, the entire area had to be redesigned in terms of the plant choices and care was taken to ensure the feeling of an ‘old Cape House’ was not lost by retaining the old as well as adding new plants that would also contribute to that character. We had to work carefully and closely with the project  team, to ensure that all new work in the garden was approved by the clients as well as the Heritage Council of South Africa, as the house and gardens are a provincial national monument.

New pathway at the Main Lawn

With the enormous help of Christo Louw, the current Grounds Manager, and his team of gardeners, the Cape Contours team  managed the lifting and dividing of the all the existing plants in the gardens. Over 5000 Agapanthus and Dietes were divided and repotted in a makeshift ‘nursery’ in the carpark, for later replanting in the garden. Existing shrubs big and small, bulbs and specimen trees were transplanted or potted up as the planting layout was revised and refined for each area. All the beds received a generous amount of organic compost before the transplanted and new plants were put back in. Wood chip was used to mulch the beds after planting and the wonderful rains we have had this summer already, have brought about a surge in growth of the small plants already.

New bench at the Pool lawn

New features in the garden include the replanted Bell Walk which has been planted up with a selection of Heritage roses in yellow, copper and apricot tones along with purple flowering Heliotrope, Salvia ‘midnight velvet’ and orange and yellow daylilies. Opposite this rows of Lavender ‘Margaret Roberts’ add a country ‘farm’ feeling. This time next year there should be a riot of glorious colour here! At the Sunken Garden, the old fountain remains…the beautiful ticky creeper covered silhouette is still there, retaining a sense of time that has passed, but new modern copper spouts and a ring of new lavender and small pools below with night time lighting have given it a new lease of life.

The new urns in the Rose Garden

A formal Rose Garden with three graceful white urns, enclosed with Rhus box hedges has also been planted near the pool, again using Heritage roses mainly in pink, red and white tones along with flowering perennials such as Penstemon, Lychnis, Achillea, Stachys, Gaura and Dietes. A very old climbing pink rose has been kept as well as the old Persimmon tree which are both remnants of the old gardens planted by previous Cloete generations. The rose selections around the garden were made by the garden designer, with great help given to her by Gwen Fagan, who is the guru on old fashioned roses. She was a great wealth of knowledge and we thank her for her time and interest in the project.

The old Oak Avenue pathway and beds which before were informal and in need of replanting, has also been redone with an all-white theme and the new pathway straightened and edged to echo the straight lines of the Font walk on the other side of the Sunken Garden. Plants used here include white Azaelas, Dietes, Peppermint pelargonium, Plectranthus ecklonii and Plectranthus agenteus and white ribbon bush. Under the old oak trees this shady area of the garden will be beautiful when flowering in the spring and autumn.

The new Herb Garden

A new Mill stormwater treatment has been sensitively redone, taking into consideration the environmental restrictions there. The run-off water from the carpark and surrounding areas now spills into a retention pond, planted up with indigenous bog plants and sedges that will help filter and clean off the impurities, before it spills over the rocky embankment into the river below. Also a new Herb Garden has been planted near the kitchens to provide herbs directly to the restaurants, with the herb choices coming direct from the team of chefs. A clipped buxus hedge will enclose the new herb garden while the beds themselves will be boxed with a lower hedge of Rosemary, making it atttractive and practical. Chervil, Fennel, Oreganos, Mints, Basil, Chives and Chilli and more are sure to guarantee delicious smells and tastes coming from the kitchen.

We look forward to seeing the garden grow and fill out over the coming months and would like to thank our suppliers and everyone involved for their hard work and enthusiasm in bringing this project to completion. The garden will need time to mature, about 2 years before everything is at it’s intended size and we look forward to monitoring it closely.

Every month we highlight a new plant (both exotics and indigenous species) and tell you about some of its qualities that we think make it a worthwhile garden specimen.

Pelargonium peltatum – ‘Ivy leafed pelargonium’

This climbing or sprawling, semi-succulent perennial, has long, straggling shoots, which can reach a height of 2 m. This plant is characterized by its ivy-shaped leaves and profuse clusters of flowers varying from mauve or pinkish mauve to pale pink or white. It flowers mainly in September to December.
This plant can be used in many ways. Plant it alongside trees or against a trellis, encouraging it to scramble up. Or plant it to cascade down terraced or retaining walls. It is also excellent as a container plant for hanging baskets, window boxes and planter troughs. The plant does well in shade and full sun, although it flowers more profusely in full sun. It also makes an excellent groundcover under larger trees. Dead flowers must be pinched off to promote more flowering and maintain a neat and tidy plant. In autumn, long and leggy stems should be cut back to the point where healthy green leaves remain on the plant. This pruning will allow your plant to grow and flower profusely.
There are now a number of cultivars available from retail nurseries that have stronger pink and red flowers and produce flowers for more of the summer season.

Not everyone in Cape Town is aware that tucked away in the heart of Kenilworth, amongst the suburban roads, is a gem of a private garden that sparkles with glamour, history, beauty, elegance and tradition. Stellenberg House is owned by the Ovenstone family and once a year they generously open their exquisite garden to the public in aid of charity for viewing. Last weekend the garden was open, and I took my opportunity to enjoy what for me was garden ‘bliss’.

Gates to the 'White Garden'

The house has been owned by the current owners for more than 60 years and the garden, originally designed by the legendary David Hicks, has over the years been further developed with the help currently of designer Franchesca Watson, along with Sandy Ovenstone and her team of gardeners and caretakers.

The garden is divided into a number of ‘rooms’, and each area of the garden is cool and serene with wonderful rolling lawns giving a great sense of space, and hedges and trees creating secret walks and shady spots to pause. The old werf walls, the amazing entrance gates, the Manor House façade and old water furrows and bathing pond, give the garden it’s historical elements that have been sensitively ‘dressed’ with a typical old fashioned style of garden. Box hedges are abundant, so are the beautiful old fashioned roses; there is a working vegetable and cut flower garden; the garden of reflection with its three flat ponds; the incredible ‘parterre’ overflowing with colourful textures and scents and the vine covered pergola walkways.

The parterre

If you get the chance, do go see it next year. The open days are normally advertised in the press. It is well worth it, plus you can buy excess plants propagated by the head gardener from the Nursery after your walk around.

Geranium incanum – ‘Carpet geranium’

A pretty and very useful indigenous plant, the carpet geranium is a great groundover, growing approximately 30cm tall, which flowers almost all year round. It’s fine leaves and delicate small pink flowers give it a delicate appearance which make it useful for use in gardens where a ‘soft’ effect is desired.

It is very useful as a groundcover to be planted tumbling down an embankment or slope and also works very well to cover retaining walls or ugly Terraforce walls. It requires full sun, but I have seen it doing quite well in dappled shade too. It also makes a nice soft edge to a pathway and works very well in hanging baskets or in the mixed border rambling amongst the other plants.

Portable food boxes

One can grow a relatively large harvest of food from a 1m x1m timber box with enough depth for large rooted plants such as beets, potatoes and onions. A box this size can be positioned on a small balcony or patio or even in some indoor environments that receive a minimum of 3-4hours of direct sunlight per day. These food boxes can be relocated (with some help as they are heavy!)  and the planting can be inter-changed depending on the seasons. One company that is taking great strides in developing this form of food production is Start Living Green – Organic Food Gardens. See more at http://www.startlivinggreen.co.za

Windowfarms. This unique concept lets one grow food all year-round indoors while maximizing space. They are vertical food-growing gardens that use a soil-free technique called hydroponics. You can buy a kit or build your own using recycled local materials. Having a windowfarm is more about the activity and experience of windowfarming.  These would be great to grow a selection of your favorite herbs for culinary purposes.

Researchers have argued that to grow our own food is the most beneficial action an individual can take for the environment, not only because of the food industry’s heavy carbon footprint but also because participating in agricultural production cultivates a valuable skill set and deeper understanding of sustainability.

Vertical Vegetable Panels. This is an idea that takes vegetables that would be grown on a horizontal plane, like the typical vegetable garden, to a horizontal plane by means of a geo-textile, soil-filled bag. This year’s 2011 Chelsea Flower Show featured a towering vege garden about 2 stories tall and showcased just how inventive we can be even if we have limited horizontal space. At Cape Contours we are trialing this method of growing both ornamental and edible plants. The bags (or pockets) are attached to the wall using anchor fixings and can be planted up with seedlings for instant use. The panels come in single, triple or as a 9-pocket panel. The watering of these plants is done by hand or a more elaborate irrigation system and pump can be fitted. For more information on this call 021 788 1202 and speak to Sean.

Una in the garden

I met Una on one of her annual garden open days at her incredible house and garden, Old Nectar, in the Jonkershoek Valley just outside Stellenbosch. In  1941 and she and her husband, General K.R. van der Spuy C.B.E., M.C., bought the property Old Nectar, an old Cape Dutch House with a few hectares of ground. As there was no garden, she immediately set about trying to create one worthy of the house. In this, despite having no knowledge of plants when she started, she succeeded admirably, as the garden in due course was declared a National Monument, the only private garden to have been thus honoured to date. From 1950 she has opened the garden each spring to raise funds for various charities and it has become well-known and featured in magazines and books in many countries of the world.

On our tour of the garden Una gave us many of her fantastic pearls of gardening wisdom which I share here with you:

Lawn care – mow 3 times a week!

Manicured lawns at Old Nectar

Una has a large kikuyu lawn which looks immaculate. She says to mows it 3 times a week in summer from Sept till Feb on a high level with an electric mower. She however really feels that us with smaller lawns needn’t bother with electric or petrol mowers as the old fashioned manual ones do a better job and she still uses hers on the smaller lawn areas. She uses a fertilizer for the lawn with a high ratio of nitrogen such as 8:1:5…but she can’t remember when last they fed theirs – I can’t believe it as it looks wonderful!

Never buy plants for their flowers!

Una believes that because the majority of ornamental plants available only flower for about a month, the foliage of plants is much more important when making choices at the nursery. The colours, textures, shapes and contrasts made by foliage when layered in the garden  creates a dynamic and constant level of interest and beauty throughout the year even after the flowers have faded.

Gold, bronze & silver foliage

As Una showed us around Old Nectar she often pointed out the plants that have bronze, gold and silvery foliage effects around the garden and how when viewed from a distance they add so much interest to the garden and landscape. Gold foliage encompasses all those that have yellowy tones such as Durantas, Golden Privet, Golden Elder, Abutilon, Conifers etc. Bronzes have coppery orange/red tones such as Polyganum, Syzigium, Berberis, Maples and Prunus trees. The silvers add sparkle and light and plants with these qualities as Old Nectar include Cineraria, Helichrysum, Stachys (Lamb’s ears), Gazanias. I especially liked the way she repeated the clipped privet and confier balls around the garden so that neat mounds of gold sparkled regularly around the various areas and levels of lawn.

65 year old rose bushes!

Una’s rose tips:

• In summer feed every month with fertilizer. Mix up the ratio regularly of N:P:K so that the roses get more Nitrogen in some months and sometimes more Phosphorous and Potassium (potash) in others. This encourages strong growth and profuse flowering.
• Don’t use a spray hose to water the roses. Rather flood the rose bushes really well once a week at the base. This helps to prevent fungal diseases which can settle more easily on the wet petals and leaves.
• Pick off the rose insects by hand and kill them by stamping on them – sudden death is better than prolonged agony! “Do a circuit of the roses twice a day at ten in the morning and just after afternoon tea to pick the nasties off.”
• To prolong rose flowering, cut of some of the new shoots before the buds form to prevent all the blooms flowering at once and then all fading at the same time. By cutting off a third in early Sept on mature plants, you can get a mid Spring flush and again at the end of Spring!
• Make sure your design for a rose garden is strong so that in winter there is still interest in the surrounding shrubs and geometry of the area.
• Three of Una’s rose varieties are the same bushes she planted 65 years ago! The reason for their success she believes is that she was told that roses should never be planted in sub-soil (the soil below the rich top layers which is often poor). Before they planted the rose bushes, they trenched the beds to a depth of about 60cm and filled them with horse manure and topsoil. The soil today looks amazing! And she doesn’t use mulch around her roses – mainly as she doesn’t’ like the look of it and prefers to see the soil.

These are just a few of her tips…once I transcribe the rest I will add in more of her pearls of wisdom.  Happy gardening!

The trees were chosen for their tolerance to wind and harsh environmental conditions.

For each tree a 1 cubic meter hole was dug into which ¾ of a cubic meter of compost was mixed with 1kg of bounceback and 500g of bonemeal per tree.  This was all mixed with the1/4 of the material that was excavated from the tree hole.  This was then used as the planting medium. We have found this to be a very good tree mix.

Trees planted:

• Ficus rubiginosa
• Olea africana
• Syzigium cordatum
• Sideroxlyon inerme

The trees are looking great and fun was had by all. Dirty hands and grubby faces were proof that everyone had a good time!

Thank you Kirstenhof Primary School for allowing us the opportunity to be involved in this project.

Some tips when planting a tree:

1. Purchase trees that have been ‘hardened off’. Do not purchase trees that have been grown in sheltered/pampered conditions.
2. The success of the tree is directly dependant on the preparation of the size of the hole it is planted in and the soil mix which is used.  Make sure that your soil mix is good.
3. When planting the tree remember to take it out of its bag!  Regularly we notice that trees and plants are planted in their bags.
4. When planting the tree, the stem of the tree must not be covered with soil.  If it is it will cause rot, this will result in ‘ringbarking;’ and the tree will die. Make sure that the stem of the tree where it meets the new earth is the same as it was in it’s bag/pot.
5. Remember to stake your trees if they are exposed to wind. Use flexible rubber tree ties or rope inside an old piece of hosepipe to brace the tree to the stake and prevent damaging the stem.
6. Chose your trees wisely.  Do not plant trees that are tender or unable to withstand the harsh elements thatCape Townpresents.
7. If in doubt, give us a shout!  We are here to help and advise!

A natural pool is a beautiful, inspiring and healthier alternative to the common swimming pool. Eco-swimming pools stay clean without chemical treatments because they use the same cleaning and filtration process of natural ponds, watercourses and wetlands.

A typical eco-pool consists of a water mass divided in two parts: one for swimming and one for the cleaning process. That way you don’t have to swim amongst the plants, unless you really want to! The “cleaning system” where the biological cleaning process happens, consists of a wetland with water plants in a bed of gravel, minerals aggregates and sand. This can be situated alongside the pool with a wall in-between or can be in a different part of the garden altogether and linked with pipes or a ‘river’ depending on your preference for the design of the system. The beauty of these pools is that they can be designed in any style – either as a more natural pond, or slick with clean architectural lines – to suit your house and lifestyle.  The plants create a habitat for micro-organisms that keeps the water clean and break down potential polluting compounds. The gravel serves as a natural filter.

The absences of chemicals are beneficial for the environment, human and animals. Amphibians, insects like dragon flies and several bird species will enjoy and appreciate the sheltered habitat. The cost of a natural swimming pool is more than your average chlorinated pool. This is due to the bigger area required for the wetland and sand flitration system, the specialised plants and the unique design normally required to blend garden with pool and house easily. But those who have them, say there is nothing quite like swimming in a naturally cleaned pool, right close to nature.

Natural swimming pools are also referred to as swimming ponds, freshwater pools, green pools, nature pools, wetland pools, Bio pools, Spring Pools, pure water pools or plant pools.

Diospyros whyteana – ‘Bladdernut Tree’

Bladdernut at Kirstenbosch

Diospyros is a small to medium sized, evergreen tree that thrives in a shady position and makes a great specimen tree. It has glossy dark green, slightly hairy small leaves. It also has creamy fragrant flowers; unusual smooth, dark grey, almost black bark and distinctive reddish brown, papery, balloon-like fruit pods. The neat growth habit, glossy dark green leaves and masses of interesting fruit make Diospyros whyteana an excellent tree for the garden. It can be planted as an accent plant, particularly in a small garden where space is limited. As it is decorative and responds so well to clipping it is an outstanding plant to grow as a hedge. The bladdernut makes an attractive container plant for the patio and is also a good species for bonsai. It also attracts birds to the garden.

Close up of glossy Bladdernut leaves

Know your enemies

Aphids, of which there are at least 4000 varieties, are one of the smallest and most damaging insect types. They target the softest plant tissue, which happens to be the flower buds, causing plants to drop or grow deformed flowers, and new leaves which will determine the plants growth and strength for the season ahead. They do this by sucking out all the plants juices and secrete honey dew which in turn attracts the flies and ants. Plants should be checked regularly as aphids multiply rapidly, doubling overnight. Snails, everyone knows what a menacing pest they are, and how much effort it takes to rid your garden of them. A small bucket set in the soil with a tin of beer poured in works, maybe half a tin when the Bokke are playing. Watch out for your prized potted plants too, snails absolutely love the taste of a nice ripe Phalaenopsis flower bud, about to open, the same goes for your other ‘normal’ orchids such as the Cymbidiums, Oncidiums, and Cattelya’s. If you don’t want to add snail-bait to these plants, place a slice of apple on the potting medium overnight and you are sure to find the snails hiding underneath in the morning. Fungi’s are also problematic, and while normally taking longer, they can also end up killing your plants. Scales will also be encountered and should be rubbed off of the bark and killed.

Your friends

Ladybirds are one of the most useful little helpers in the garden. They eat the aphids, so it is advisable to try attracting these as much as possible. This can be done by planting tansy, alyssum, spearmint, sweet fennel, and their all time favourite, lace. Spiders are also beneficial to pest control, and are capable of catching the bigger garden pests. Birds are equally useful, and bring a relaxing atmosphere to your garden as well. Birds are easily attracted by placing a birdbath somewhere in your garden along with a bird feeder with some seeds and suet. You can make your own suet ball if you fancy by melting animal fat in a pot, straining it, and repeating the process once more. Then add a variety of seeds and nuts and let it set in a mould. The birds will literally flock to your neck of the woods and do you some gardening favours while they are there. Frogs are often forgotten in the garden, but are a good sign of a healthy system and will also help with eradicating pests.

Take control

Your first steps to pest control should always be the least invasive. Start by ensuring a healthy garden and plants. Plants that are growing well will recover much faster than others and are less susceptible to disease. Make sure that there is adequate drainage at the plants roots to minimize the chances of root rot, try not to water just after sunset as this will increase chances of fungi attacking your plants, rust could also set in on the leaves due to too much moisture, instead water in the early morning so that the sun can dry the blooms and foliage. Mulch will go a long way in saving water and slowing weed growth. If there is noticeable fungi on your plants leaves, spray a solution of 50% full cream milk and 50% fresh water on the foliage. The fat in the milk will settle on the plant and suffocate the fungi. For aphids and other pests, try making an infusion of plant oils form your garden to mist on the plants. Use plants like, Marigolds, Camphor Basil, Tansy, Lavender, Sage, Garlic, and Rosemary. After chopping up these plants, soak them in a bucket with boiling water covering the top, allow the oil to be extracted for about 24 hours, strain the mixture, add a cupful of soap powder and spray this on problem areas in your garden. These plants should also be planted between others.

Wild garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) is a wonderful choice. If the pest problem is really bad, as is usually the case when caterpillars are around or aphids have gone untreated for too long, as well as weeds taken over your garden, rather get help in – after all your garden ads a lot of value to your home and life.

Getting set up

When planning your salad garden, make sure you have a space at least 2x1m or bigger. Ideally a space of about 3-4m2 is ideal for a family of 4’s herbs and salad needs.

Clear a space in your garden that receives at least 5 hours of direct sunlight per day as herbs like it hot!

Turn the existing garden soil to about 30cm and add a good 5 to 7cm layer of organic compost and turn that into the soil again.

Make sure you have stakes for tomatoes and ties (an old rag torn in strips will do). Make sure you have a hose nearby so you can water them everyday for a few minutes.

Herbs and Veges for salads

Tomatoes are wonderfully easy to grow at home. They require a big portion of the bed due to their rampant growth and need to be staked upright to support the weight of the fruit, leaves and stems. You can buy tomato seedlings in 6 pack trays from the nursery and there are many different types now available: Roma, cherry, ‘Big Red’ and varietals of the salad types.

Lettuces are a very rewarding salad plant to grow as they mature quickly when planted from a seed or seedling. Keep an eye on snails and caterpillars as they love the juicy leaves too. Varieties available include Cos, frilly, Butter, Iceberg. Pull the entire lettuce out of the ground with the roots when it looks about the right size for eating. Wash all the leaves, dry and then store in an airtight container in your fridge to use during the week.

Cucumbers require a bigger area like tomatoes as they ramble along the ground. They do take a while to get to your shop-bought size, but they are really delicious when small as well.

Rocket is a herb that has a peppery taste and is wonderful added with other lettuce leaves or use it on it’s own with tomatoes, mozzarella and a balsamic dressing for a delicious easy salad. Rocket can be grown from seed or seedlings and there are different types with either stronger or milder flavours.

Parsley is a great herb to have in your herb garden in general as it is so versatile in many different meals and is great added to potato salad or in Greek Tzaziki. It grows easily from seedlings and all you have to do is pinch off the leaves for use and this keeps the plants bushy as well.

Chives are delicious added to salads and are part of the onion/garlic family and are quick to grow. They also have pretty mauve flowers which attracts the bees and you can even eat the flowers if you are game! Another indigenous plant that has tasty onion flavoured flowers is Tulbaghia violacea.

Grow some Nasturtiums in a pot if you don’t want them to ramble over everything else and enjoy their leaves and flowers in your salads too.

Strawberries are delicious added to salads and are very ornamental when grown as a groundcover as well. There are a number of different types sold at nurseries in the summer months.

Happy salad gardening!

This weekend in Cape Town there is a Clivia show, market and auction where you can purchase plants. It is being organised by the Cape branch of the Clivia Society.  It will be held at the Belville Civic Centre, Voortrekker Road on 24th and 25th September, from 9am till 5pm daily. Entrance is R10. Kids under 12 are free. Contact Joy (021 671 7384) or Gerrit (021 976 8924) for more info.

Carex ‘Frosted curls’

Grasses of all kinds make wonderful landscape plant subjects – especially en masse – and one of our favorite exotic grasses is this Carex hybrid.

It is a tufted, evergreen grass or sedge, with arching silvery lime leaves that curl at the tips. It looks good most of the year and is great when used at the front of your beds as it doesn’t grow much taller than 30-40cm. They add lightness to otherwise dull dark green leaved plants and look especially good when paired with bright flowering perennials and groundcovers.

Plant them en masse with other Carex species such as the fiery red tipped ‘Red rooster’ or the brown waves of ‘Bronze’, but be sure to group at least 15 of the same kind together so that you don’t end up with grass ‘fruit salad’. They look wonderful paired with succulents and the contrasting sculptural form of aloes as well. They like good free draining soil and prefer full sun but will tolerate lightly shaded areas too.

Carex 'Frosted curls' with bright red Begonia, Dianella, Cannas and Asparagus